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Gates cannot be racked. They have to be welded solid with framing so they don't sag and you can connect your hinge and latch hardware. If you had a gate on a sloped run, it would have to level out or step there to handle it.

@@Ironfenceshop Thanks for the quick reply. Do you fabricate custom gates if I was to supply proper drawing?

@@dtm8073 We typically will not make a racked gate. It very easy for a slight error in measurement to render the gate as unusable. It can also cause issues with latch hardware working properly and the gate swinging shut too fast and rough at an angle. If you wanted to draw something up for us to look at and weigh in on, you can send to sales@ironfenceshop.com

@@Ironfenceshop Thanks.

5ft is a good in-between of tall enough to keep folks in/ out, but short enough you are not looking through it rather than over it. Starting at the 5ft height will give you more driveway gate options as well as they typically start at 5ft tall too (or have more width options starting at that height). If we can help with the project at all, reach out to us at sales@ironfenceshop.com!

Thanks. Glad it helped!

It depends on how you are measuring. The panels don't change width, so if you are measuring down the slope they should space out the same. However, if you are measuring straight out (such as with a laser level or transom) then it will throw it off.

@@Ironfenceshop that makes sense, thankyou!

Glad it helped. Its odd how tough it is to find the answers to the simple stuff online sometimes!

You would have to ask Ghost directly. Every manufacturer typically has the plug-in transformer step down the power to trickle charge the battery. The battery is what powers the gate, so I'm not sure a direct connection would work out. It may send too much voltage to the motors. If you want to ask Ghost, their tech line is 850-898-1411

Glad it helped! If you have any other questions, feel free to give us a call or shoot us an email.

They are coming! We just finished shooting videos 1-5 and they are in editing now. Hoping to get 1 out a week as things progress. Stand by!

Glad it helped out! Sometimes its tough to find those very specific DIY helper videos!

With all aluminum fence, they are all technically racking panels. So you can install them in the racked or standard position. Its when you get into steel an iron that you have standard solid welded panels and separate racking panels. But in terms of an overall aluminum fence installation, its normal for most panels to be un-racked and then rack just the ones you need to.

Haha. I completely get where you are coming from. I totally understand that price is important, but I have had so many instances of people not buying from me to go with something cheaper and then coming back to me 1-2 years later to have to replace that cheap fence already. Especially with all the cheaply built aluminum fence out there. There's a reason the "you get what you pay for" and "buy once, cry once" sayings still rung true when it comes to buying things!

You would need a linear footage to quote the fence. We can't quote by square footage. We don't offer labor, so I can't help with that. If you want to give us a call at 800-261-2729, we can help work through the additional info needed and answer any questions you have.

That's a tough one to answer since column construction can vary so much. That may be a better question for a mason. There is no universal answer on that one like mounting to a metal post. I've seen long masonry lag screws used, steel plates bolted to columns and hinges welded to that and people epoxying in all-thread bolts into the concrete to bolt hinges to. The size of column, construction type (hollow or solid), type of concrete, age and condition of the concrete, etc all come into play for which connecting option is best. Even with a lighter gate, keep in mind that is a lot of leverage force on those bolts depending on the width of the gate leaf too. When people buy gates from us, we typically push them to not connect to the columns directly and use a metal post between or behind the columns instead. Sorry I couldn't give you a solid answer on how to approach it, but hopefully that gives you some guidance.

Your comment has no logic

@@JoseGonzales-ul9sv clearly your mom didn’t either.

@@polescodes Karen i didn't mean to hurt your feelings

Same I’m here to get ideas to weld my own gate While this guy is probably the 4th party. He take orders, go to gate builder to built it, then hire Mexicans to install then someone eles monitoring them. 😂

IF you mix the concrete on the dry side with a chunky peanut butter consistency, you should be able to stand the posts up in the hole without support. Just remember not to mix the concrete too wet and keep it to a drier mix.

You can go about it a few ways. The key number you want to watch is the amount of post above ground. If your fence is 4ft tall and you want a 3in gap under it, then I want to measure from top of the hole at the ground to the top of the post to make sure I have that 4ft 3in. If I don't then dig deeper or add some gravel to build it up. We recommend that you are looking at that installed 4ft 3in post height WITHOUT the cap on the post too. That way, when you add the cap on, if one post is slightly off from the other, you don't really notice.

That actually would be a good way as well! Magnet sticks its iron or steel, it doesn't and its aluminum. Not sure why that one escaped my mind when we shot this one. Good call!

We don't make any type of sliding gates, so we wouldn't be able to comment or make a video on that one. We only sell swing gates.

Glad it helped out! I did the very same thing when I started using them. It seems counter-intuitive to slow down, but it works!

Hi there. We need to go over some more details via phone and/ or email. Could you shoot us a message at sales@ironfenceshop.com or call us at 800-261-2729? Core-drilling is a stronger and more secure method than the flanges. I couldn't weight in on the depth, but it will be determined by your wall construction. Normally with core-drilling, you only go a few inches deep so you don't break through the slab/ wall. Get in contact with us direct and we can go through the project in more detail. Thanks!

We didn't cover it since it varies immensely across the country and may not apply to everyone. Some areas have zero gate width restrictions while others will have fire department regulations. 20ft seems REALLY wide, but its your individual city's call for what code they enforce. Code like that is NOT universal. A semi truck can fit through a 12ft gate if its going straight through, so a fire truck doesn't need 20ft to get in. However, what the city code says it what you have to follow. Valid point we could have touched on it more in the video, but in 14yrs of being here, its only come up handful of times with local fire departments wanting access from the homeowner for automated gates. Even then it only came up maybe 2 times out of a 100 gate calls. I've never had someone buy a gate and then have to try and return it due to fire department code. As for your 14ft gate, call your city's Building/ Engineering department. Again, some areas may require 20ft like the internet says, but others may have zero gate width restrictions. Only the person at your city's Building/ Engineering Department is going to have the true answer.

Hi John. Yes it is. Some people will flip the lower one so the gate can't be lifted off, but then all the weight is being carried by the upper hinge and bearing alone. In 14yrs here, no one has called to replace a stolen gate, but if security is a concern its better to orient them the same way and put a small piece of angle steel above the hinge to block it from being lifted off.

Are you referring to the height and attachment points on the gate? It shouldn't, but you want to do your measurements and drilling based on both halves of the j-bolt installed together. It can make a slight difference in the height of the threaded j-portion sticking out of the pot with and without the ball bearing down in there.